Goodbye, Fabio's. Hello, Pomodoro. The Brazilian-Italian hybrid at 62 Stewart Avenue in Huntington Village is no more. In its place is a 100 percent Italian restaurant under the same ownership.

Gone are the black beans and the white baby grand piano, along with the parrots and the aquamarine-tropical décor. Now, the red, white and green of the Italian flag color Pomodoro Ristorante Italiano, leaving no doubt about this newcomer's lineage. Helping make a bold Italian statement are the center-stage antipasto display, the red-and-white checked tablecloths, murals of Italy and wall hangings depicting bountiful Italian feasts.

The restaurant has a bustling Italian-bistro look with shiny wood floors, a wall of mirrors and large picture windows. All of which add up to a high-octane noise level on busy nights. Go for the above-average food and efficient service, but forget quiet conversation.

Pomodoro's snappy serving crew delivers immediately. A basket of bread and a complimentary teaser of crisp chewy focaccia and flavor-packed black olives appears instantly.

Service continues to be right on the mark with peppermills, freshly grated cheese and refills of water arriving just before diners realize a need for them. The assortment of cold antipastos can be a delight, or a hodgepodge when it is piled on too small a plate. Diners who indicate their favorites receive a satisfying customized antipasto selection along with a smile.

Soups, too, are smiling successes. The creamy tomato-herb served in a hollowed loaf of bread enchanted the diner who ordered it. The presentation was charming, the soup was tasty, and the scrapings of bread added body. An evening special of zucchini soup was rich, lusty and packed with assorted vegetables.

If lush eggplant mounded with chopped tomatoes and eggplant is offered grab it. The other appetizer showstopper was the fried calamari. Even the blasé perked up after one bite of those extremely tender, crisply fried rings....

Portobello mushrooms found a happier fate in a pasta pleaser of penne in a rich tomato sauce loaded with sausage and mushrooms. Spagettini putanesca was another earthy enchantress. More refined but equally appealing were black-and-white ravioli stuffed with lobster in a sweet red pepper sauce. This harlequinlike special was a treat for the eyes and a joy to the palate.